I'm quite desperate. I have disabled it in the admin backend (Administration -> Configuration -> Development -> "Page cache maximum age" = "<no caching>"). In
sites/default/services.yml I have:
parameters: twig.config: debug: true auto_reload: true cache: false
I even tried to disable the opcache (wich makes not much sense, of course). The templates get translated (or rendered?) only once after I manually clear the cache.
I'm using Drupal 8.3.4, PHP 7.1 with php-fpm, postgresql and lighttpd on CentOS.
To always clear the cache – by clicking in the interface or
drush cr –
feels like compiling a c++ application. And doing a
delete from cache_render; delete from cache_dynamic_page_cache; delete from cache_entity; in the
psql console feels 500 times faster but also isn't really convenient.