I was wondering the same and maybe this code is related:
function refreshless_page_attachments(array &$page) {
$request = \Drupal::request();
// Refreshless is only sensible when there is an actual session (otherwise the
// entire page can be cached by the page_cache module, and be sent more
// quickly than Refreshless could).
// @see \Drupal\big_pipe\Render\Placeholder\BigPipeStrategy.
$session_exists = \Drupal::service('session_configuration')->hasSession($request);
$page['#cache']['contexts'][] = 'session.exists';
if ($session_exists) {
$page['#attached']['library'][] = 'refreshless/refreshless';
}
}
It could be that for anonymous user the library is not loaded at all(check the comments in the function).
However I am not 100% sure.
Update: if you log in, you can see that refreshless.js is loaded.